The downside is that maintenance can be a real pain and there are more exposed parts that make noise and can rust. This is a very unique setup in the world of ebikes where hub motors are dominant. So there end up being two chains, one on the right side that you pedal to move and one on the left that the motor powers. On the right side of the hub is a standard six-speed cassette that takes input from the rider when pedaling. The motor drives a chain which is attached to the rear wheel on the left side of the hub. All things considered, it works well and feels stronger than other 250 watt electric bikes. The top speed achievable is only 15 miles per hour (in throttle mode) and that helps extend range and provide more torque at the ideal RPM for the motor. In Europe this size is standard due to regulations but in the US where 500 watt hub motors are commonplace, this can feel weaker. The motor used for the Skyline offers only 250 watts of power which is on the lower side for electric bikes. It doesn’t offer lights, fenders or a fancy LCD computer but for under a thousand dollars it’s one of the best options available. When compared with the eZip Trailz, which costs even less, the Skyline shines as being lighter weight, having a higher quality battery and a better frame design that creates a more balanced ride. I see this is not the hubmotor zip bike, but the currie motor type.The eZip Skyline balances price against features and while the components it chooses are on the lower end, it offers a lot of value as an entry level electric bike. So what I'm trying to say is, though you can put a 36v 20 amp controller on that bike, pulling the full 720 watts it can provide won't be kind to that size battery. So for that small battery to take you far, you'll need to use it at 200w, traveling 15 mph or so. 400w will just get you to 20 mph cruising for most ebikes. It's basicly intended for use at less than 400w. If you put a very big controller on it and ride fast, you'll just murder the battery fairly quick. In lead, a 10 ah battery is very very small. I am also not expert enough to tell you much about the Ezips, but in general, 20-30 amps would be the max I'd try to pull out of that battery even for very brief periods. Since that is a set of three lead acid batteries, if nothing else you can just remove one of them in the meantime, till you sort out what to do. You'll still have a working e-bike until the day comes that you don't have to ask whether a controller you're considering will work or not. But if you just stuck with the stock set-up while investing the time it takes to learn, then that's liable to be your best way. The downside is that this eats up a lot of calendar. But I keep coming back and reading in the hope of gaining a bit more knowledge. (My hat's off to him) I do find, though, that they tend to be a bit more technical than I can easily deal with. 36 volts would get you more speed (I think), but at the cost of dealing with unfamiliar hardware that might or might not even work.ĭarkAngel's threads are a great place to look for info. I've spotted pairs for as little as $50-55 on ebay. 12 volt/10 amp-hr batteries can be found pretty cheap. I can't be much help to as I'm just not all that savvy on the technical details of e-motors.
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